This page explains Gene's method of growing a mini-dwarf apple tree whose mature height will be 3 feet.  These are all grown on M27 or P22 rootstock.  Now it's important to realize how great an effect the M27 or P22 rootstock has in reducing a mini-dwarf's growing vigor.  This effect is so limiting that during the time it is bearing fruit, it will not have the additional energy to form new primary branches.  So it is essential to create the tree's primary framework of branches, called scaffolding, before you let it bear fruit.   Gene likes to begin by planting a newly grafted apple tree.  They're just tiny sticks about as thick as an index finger and maybe 6 to 10 inches high.  The whole tree consists of a little piece of wood (from a desired variety) grafted on top of the rootstock.  He doesn't want an older tree because he wants to control everything.   While the tree is still dormant, Gene digs a generous hole .  He then throws away the soil he took out,  since it's mostly clay.  He plants the tree deep so that the grafting union is 3 to 4 inches above the soil line.  The hole is refilled with inexpensive top soil purchased in 40 pound bags.  He uses one bag or a little more.  No fertilizer is added when first planting.

  Year two begins with cutting the single stem whip back to 18 inches above the soil line.  This is done in early spring while the tree is still dormant.  When the buds sprout, Gene removes every bud between the ground and 12 inches.  He leaves the topmost bud on, but removes the bud directly below that.  This top bud will become the new central leader.
  On the trunk between 12 inches and 18 inches he looks for buds that will be used to develop the lower main scaffold.  He'd like to find 4 well spaced buds that will grow out at 90 degree angles from each other, for example towards the north, south, east and west.  Sometimes he only finds 3.  All other buds are removed.
  In a little while the side buds become flexible 3 inch side branches.  At this point Gene takes a clothespin and places it on the trunk, directly above each side branch.  This encourages the new branch to grow out perpendicular from the trunk, rather then upward.  Branches grown at 90 degrees are the strongest and also bear earlier.  The clothespins are left on for two or three months.

  Year three begins with cutting the central leader back to 30 inches above the soil, while the tree is still dormant.  Like before, when the buds sprout, the topmost bud is left on, and the bud directly below is removed.  This top bud will continue growing as the central leader.   Gene now cuts last year's side branches until they are 6 to 8 inches long.  They are cut to a bottom facing bud.  This will encourage the branch to fork out.  This should also be done in subsequent years at the other scaffold tiers.
  Gene next looks at the 18 to 30 inch segment of the central leader for buds from which to form the second set.  Like before he's looking for 4 buds growing at 90 degree angles from each other, but this time he's also taking the lower set of scaffolding branches into consideration.  Let's say the lower branches are growing towards the north, south, east and west.  He'd ideally like to choose buds growing towards the northeast, southeast, northwest and southwest.  Again, sometimes he only finds 3 buds to use.   Clothespins are also attached to the trunk  above these branches when they reach 3 inches.
  Even though a mini-dwarf normally has its first blossoms in its third year, and it's so tempting to leave them on, Gene strongly recommends removing any fruit that sets.

  Year four begins with cutting the central leader back to 36 inches above the soil, while the tree is still dormant.  This will be the final height of the tree.  At this point Gene sometimes develops 1 or 2 side branches in the area between 30 and 36 inches in the same way as before.  More often Gene lets his tree start bearing fruit.  From that point on, whenever the tree is producing fruit, growth from the top will be minimal.