Care Of Your Newly Grafted Fruit Tree

  Hopefully the root stock you grafted at the workshop is thriving and the scion buds have grown healthy shoots. Due to the fact there are many new members this discussion will review some of the points covered at the grafting workshops.
  The rootstocks are of the dwarfing type and are generally best for the home gardener. They are the easiest to harvest, prune, and spray. They produce higher yields per acre than larger trees. Fully dwarf trees allow one to grow as many as nine different trees in the space that one full sized tree would take up

  Getting your tree off to a good start is very important. A stunted tree may take years to recover and it may never make a good productive tree. Some members plant the new tree directly in a permanent location and others put the tree in a pot so it can be given special care. By being in a pot, it can be brought into a warm area. This is helpful in callusing the new graft (especially beneficial for some of the stone fruits).
  When the tree starts to leaf out, it can be moved outside to a sunny location but can still be brought in if we get some cold freezing weather. The first several days, put the tree outside for a couple of hours, then increase the time as it becomes acclimated to the outside environment. Also, in very hot weather months it can be give a little shade if necessary. The tree can be set in its permanent location in mid fall or early spring when the tree is dormant. If one is careful not to disturb the root ball, the tree will hardly know it has been transplanted. Potted trees will not survive outside during the winter unless the pots are sunk into the ground. The tops may take thirty below but the root area can only take about 10 degrees F.

  When selecting a site for planting the tree, look for one with good drainage. If the spot you select has a high water table or has standing water after a rain, construct a raised mound or bed and plant the tree above ground level. The roots of fruit trees need air.
  Plant fruit trees in good soil. If the ground is filled with construction rubble, dig up an area about four feet by four feet by 18 inches deep and replace with garden soil that drains well. If you wish, add two cups of bone meal to the soil but no other fertilizer. Only start fertilizing after the tree is well established.

  Plant a dwarf fruit tree so the graft between the rootstock and scion, or between the interstem and scion is several inches above ground. If not, the scion may root directly and the tree will not be dwarfed. The root interstem graft however, can be planted below ground.
  Once trees are planted, water them conscientiously. Give apple trees an inch of water weekly from bud break through August, unless rainfall is heavy. After August, water trees sparingly so they can harden off for winter. A mulch or grass clippings, wood chips, newspaper held down by bricks or rocks, or any other suitable materials will conserve soil moisture and discourage weeds.
  All sprouts that appear below the graft union should be removed. If the graft is covered with plastic, cut a slit in the plastic and let the sprouts above the graft union grow out through the hole. When these sprouts are four to six inches long, remove the plastic wrap and plastic strip over the rubber strip/graft union. In July when the tree is growing vigorously, remove the rubber strip. If the graft still requires support, replace the budding rubber with masking tape one layer thick. Masking tape expands as the tree grows and does not have to be removed.

  Training a young tree should result in a good bearing framework. The central leader system is most commonly used on dwarf apples. Prune as little as possible while trees are young, only enough to achieve the desired structure and maintain the central leader; excessive pruning will delay fruiting. Select four or five branches spaced around the tree for the first scaffold. This may take more than one year. Spread the branches so they make a 60 degree angle with the central leader. This can be done with pinch type clothes pins, pieces of wood called "spreaders", or hanging plastic jugs of water from the heavier branches. A second tier of branches should be established above the first scaffold. Two or three tiers of branches are enough on a dwarf tree. The leader must always remain the highest point in the tree even though it can be pruned to keep the tree at the desired height.

  As the fruit tree grows older it must be pruned so light and air can reach the fruit. Renewal pruning should be done from time to time since the size and quality of the fruit diminishes on old fruiting wood. Spring pruning encourages more growth. If you find that some varieties are too vigorous, put off pruning them until July or August when pruning will not stimulate as much new growth. If your graft failed to show any growth and you have sprouts developing from below the graft union, don't despair! Allow two or three of the sprouts to grow. If they develop adequately, you may try bud grafting later in the summer or try more scion grafts next spring.

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